Fence Installation For The Home Improvement Challenged
By Chuck Lunsford

Fences, whether wood, chain-link, plastic or steel are installed for any number of reasons. The primary reason, and most will agree,is for privacy, whereby segregating a section of the yard to keep your business away from public eye. Another reason, but no less important, is to keep children or pets in the confines of your property. Whatever the purpose a well placed fence only enhances the look of your property and adds to the value of the home if you decide to sell at a later date.

Before taking on any major job I've learned to ask myself a few questions. Do I have the confidence to take on the job? Do I have the right tools? Am I physically capable? Do I have to get permission? It's not a knock on yourself to ask for help. I've swallowed my pride a few times, asked for help, and in doing so saved myself alot of frustration and money.

I suggest you visit or call your local code or permitting office to see whether you have to pull a permit. Once you've determined whether it's okay to build your fence, make sure you're building it on your own property. If you do not know your property measurements, check with the local jurisdiction's department that keeps your tax plat records or hire a surveyor. Mark the corners with flags and show your lines clearly with paint or stakes and string to define your boundaries.

Installing the fence

There are many different material options when it comes to fencing, from wood to metal to plastic. For this example we'll discuss the use of pressure-treated wood since it offers long-term endurance. Don't worry too much about figuring out how much material you'll need. Just take the exact dimensions of your property to the local fencing distributors. They will be able to figure out the cost.

Tools needed:
Air gun nailer (makes the job go quicker unless you're REALLY into swinging a hammer)
Safety glasses
Post hole digger (if you're ok with blisters) or a power auger (Make sure someone instructs you on how to use the tool, and carefully follow all safety precautions. These mechanical beasts don't know the difference between your foot and the ground when they start digging)
Small sledge hammer
Shot line
Type N quick drying cement

Regardless of the type of wood you use, the nails should last as long as the fence, so choose galvanized nails if at all possible.

The number and placement of the posts you use will be determined by the distance of your fence. A good rule of thumb is to space them between 6 to 8 feet apart. Once you've determined post placement, you're ready to dig your holes. The general guideline for setting posts is to place at least one-third of the length of each pole in the ground.

What I like to do is put in my corner posts first and use them as a guide to get all the subsequent posts to line up staright. Set the corner posts where you want them, securing the posts by adding a bag of fast-setting concrete to each hole. Simply add a gallon of water and allow the mixture to set up; it will generally harden in less than an hour. Once a post is placed in the hole, check to see if it's plumb and adjust as necessary. Hold in place by nailing scrap wood to the post to stake it. Once the cement has set tie a piece of shot line between the corner posts as tightly as possible. This is your plumb line for setting up the rest of the posts in straight line.

When placing the top rail, keep in mind that a good typical height is between 58 and 66 inches from the ground. The middle and lower rails should be spaced evenly below. The rail length is determined by measuring from the center of one post to the center point of the next. Use two 10-penny nails to fasten the end of each rail to each post, making sure that all the rails are on the same horizontal plane and the same distance from the ground.

To speed up the building process, make sure all the rails are in position before starting to attach the pickets. Place a picket on the first post, with the bottom approximately 1 inch above the ground. Make sure it's plumb, then nail it in place.

Repeat the process with a a picket on the next post, but only nail it in place with one or two nails. Then add a nail to the top of each picket and run a string between them, placing it a half-inch above the top of the picket. The top of each picket should then be positioned a half-inch below the string. This allows the pickets to gradually follow the contour of the yard. Tip: To ensure a uniform space between your pickets, cut a small piece of one picket to use as a spacer as you work your way along the rails. (Be sure to keep placing pickets with the tops a half-inch below the string line.)

While holding each picket in place next to the spacer, secure it with a single nail right in the center. This will allow some leeway for aligning it later. Work your way around the perimter until each picket is secured with a single center nail.

Now it's time to plumb the pickets. Hold your level alongside and on top of each one to check that it's plumb. Once it's perfectly postioned, get the nail gun and add two nails to the top end (for a total of three, since the first one was put in earlier to hold the piece in place), then secure it with three at the bottom end. Repeat the process all the way down the line, then go to the other side and repeat again.

If you follow all the steps correctly you should end up with a fence that runs straight on all sides, and best all adds to the curb appeal of your home.

Chuck Lunsford is a successful Webmaster and publisher of JustGoDoItYourself.com He provides more tips and advice on accomplishing do it yourself fence installation

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Chuck_Lunsford

Building Your House A Fence
By Daniel Roshard

You don’t have to be an architect to draw a blueprint of your fence. And you don’t have to make an award winning blueprint either. Just make sure that you have determined dimension of the fence, distance between each post, type of the fence, and the location of the corner posts.

A normal distance between each post is between 6 and 8 feet.

Step 2 Mark the line

Mark the end or corner posts first. Make a line that stretches from post to post. Measure the position of each post carefully. The posts must be in a straight line and in an accurate distance from one another. Take time to do this accurately as it will affect the result of your fence.

Step 3 Prepare the posts

Treat the portion of each fence posts that will be underground with wood preservative. Do this one day before you place them into the hole to become well-saturated.

Step 4 Dig the hole

The depth of the fence post buried underground should always be 1/3 of the total length of your fence post.

Use a post hole digger to dig fence post holes. Secure the fence post firmly by digging a larger hole at the bottom and smaller at the top. Place 2 shovels full of gravel or large stones into the hole.

Step 5 Set up the posts

Place the fence posts into the hole and pack it with either concrete or dirt. Make sure that the posts are perfectly upright by using a regular leveler. Check the alignment by sighting from one end of the post to the other.

Secure the post with braces to keep it in the position while you pack it with concrete or dirt. Do not remove the braces until the dirt is packed thoroughly or the concrete is hard enough to support the post. This would take several days or about a week.

Make sure that the heads of posts are slanted, rounded, or capped to prevent them from accumulating water or moisture that can cause rotting.

Step 6 Add the rails to the fence posts

There are 3 basic types of fence rails: the slotted joint, butt joint, and the lap joint. The height of the each rail should be the same with every post.

A fence is a part of your house, it is another feature in the exterior design of the whole house, and can be made to compliment and even hide some of the things that you like less in the appearance of your outdoor front, learn about You can read his latest work about Wood Fence and other kinds of fences at http://fences.advice-tips.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Daniel_Roshard

Soundproofing Your Fence with Dr. Bob
By Dr. Bob Orther

So you have just purchased your home but when you first looked at it, you didn’t realize just how bad the traffic noise in the backyard really was. Now you are committed to a 30-year mortgage and asks “What can I do Dr. Bob? Well, I’m glad you asked.

You can construct a soundproof or a sound-control fence. Now will this fence block 100% of the traffic noise? I’m afraid not, but will it make your backyard life tolerable? You bet it will.

There are some things that you need to know about building an effect sound control fence that will make it more effective. First and foremost, you new sound control fence needs to be 8 ft above the noise source. Now you need to check with your city or township to see if they have height ordinances regarding fences. If they will only allow a 6’ high fence, you can always build an earthen berm to increase the height of the backyard where the fence will be erected.

Now lets talk about the fence itself. I recommend building a cedar or redwood slatted fence as high as possible, (8ft being the minimum height above the noise source). The term “Above the noise source” means simply this, if the noise is coming from an automobile muffler, then the fence technically needs to be 8’ above the cars tailpipe. This should be simple enough. If you fence isn’t exactly 8’ above the noise source will it not be effective? Of course it will, but at the 8’ level you will get the best sound blocking.

Let’s talk about constructing your fence. The new redwood or cedar fence will have at least 4” X 4” posts mounted in concrete footings and sunk at least 2 ft into the ground. You will want as stable a foundation as possible for your new sound control fence as you will be adding heavy sound blocking agents to it. Once the posts are set and the concrete has cured, you will then add the fence cross members. These are generally 2“ X 4” beams that connect the posts together and offer extra support for the fence slats. Now once the fence framing is complete, you will then be ready for the soundproofing membrane to be installed. You will have already called the professionals at Soundproofing America and ordered a product called “mass loaded vinyl”. Mass loaded vinyl is a loaded vinyl soundproofing barrier that comes in rolls that are 35’x 4’ or 30’ x 4 ½’. Once you have your rolls of mass loaded vinyl and the acoustical caulk and tape that go with the MLV, you are ready to install the soundproof membrane for your new fence.

Your first step is to stretch the MLV along the frame of the fence, you want to make sure the that the MLV extends all the way down to the ground so that the sound does not leak though the bottom of your fence. Once the MLV is stretched across the fence frame, you will staple or nail the MLV to the frame. I recommend that you overlap the MLV by at least ½” and that you will liberally caulk between the overlap with acoustical caulk. You will also want to caulk the outer perimeter of the MLV membrane with the acoustical caulk. The next step is to tape the caulked Seams only with a PVC seam sealer tape along with the acoustical caulk.

As soon as the MLV membrane is secured to the fence framing and all the seams and perimeter have been caulked and taped, it is time to slat the fence. You will use 8’ dog eared slats and but the slats as close together as possible, it is also a good idea to caulk the seams of the slats themselves, but this is absolutely not essential.

I would also recommend slats to the other side of the fence in an effort to protect the MLV membrane from the elements. This is a common practice, but once again is not essentials for good sound blockage.

One final note, some of my customers use a combination of both mass loaded vinyl and America mat closed cell foam as the septum for their sound control fences. By adding the closed cell foam you are adding sound absorption to your fence as well as the best in sound blockage. If you use both of these weather proof products, you will want to leave at least a 1/8” gap between the slats on the side of the fence that faces the noise source. In other words if you are using both America mat and MLV you will need to slat both sides of the fence and leave the gaps on the side facing the traffic for example. These septum fences work great for loud and obnoxious neighbors as well. I hope this give your new hope for having a nice quiet backyard.

This is Dr. Bob…..Out!!!!

Dr. Bob is the Senior Technical Advisor at Soundproofing America Inc, the leading authority in Soundproofing and Acoustical treatment technology.

Dr. Bob O.
Soundproofing America, Inc.
Senior Technical Director
Soundproofing Expert to The New York Times, The San Francisco Herald Examiner, The San Diego Union Tribune, and the Charlotte Observer
Ph (877) 530-0139 Toll free Fax (347) 721-9079
E-mail: Dr.bob@soundproofingamerica.com
http://www.soundproofingamerica.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Dr._Bob_Orther

Fencing and Fence Installation Tips

Fences serve a bevy of purposes for homeowners, whether it be a decorative addition or a more practical application. There are a number of decisions that you need to make before deciding to add a fence or to hire someone to do so. Here are a few points to keep in mind:

1. First things first, deciding what purpose you want your fence to serve.  Determining this will make choosing the style and material of the fence an easier process. Tall fences without gaps are best for keeping in pets and children, while keeping out animals and intruders. Similarly tall fences can be used as wind and noise barriers as well. These are the more practical applications for a fence but there are also designs of fences, like the stereotypical "white picket fence" that have more aesthetic value.  So, before you even think about material or cost, first decide what you want the fence to do for you.
   
   
2. Fences also come in a number of different materials, such as: timber (which is generally the most affordable), brick, steel, aluminum, and wire. Each have their strengths and weaknesses.  Your budget and expectations for the fence will generally determine the material you choose to use.
   
   
3. When talking to a fence installation contractor, find out if they use their own people to do the labor or if they sub-contract out. If it is a contractor or company that uses their own people, it is a safer bet that the workers have  been properly trained, and will be overlooked with a more qualified eye. If it is a fence installation contractor that is sub-contracting out the labor, it is harder for the quality of the work to be guaranteed.
   
   
4. When talking with the contractor find out if fence installation is an area that they specialize in because certain types of jobs will require some expertise for the best quality. If the job is more routine and straightforward then a general contractor or handyman might be alright.  For larger, more extravagant fence installations, try to find someone whose primary focus is fence installations.
   
   
5. Find out if the fence installation contractor is going to use concrete to set the fence, and if so, how long this will add to the process. Fully understand the process and the costs to the work.

Fence installation contractors may also provide the following services:

• Carpentry
• General Contractor
• Handyman
• Landscaping
• Decking