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Plumbing Basics � Installing a Bathtub
By Ray Dobson
Installing a bathtub isn't exactly rocket science, but it does require solid plumbing, carpentry, and sometimes, tiling skills. Replacing an old bathtub with a new one is also a moderately difficult project. If the old tub is readily accessible, the project can move speedily; if you have to open a wall to remove the old tub and position the new bathtub, the task is much harder. In either case, the project is within a home handyman's skills, although you will need a helper to move out the old tub and set in the new one. Make sure you have qualified yourself for the job and are comfortable attempting it. Rather than hiring a contractor to take over a halfway-completed project, it is better to consider employing one before you begin. Chances are you may need a professional plumber to make tube connections.
This article will help you install a new bathtub in your bathroom if you have already bought a new tub and don�t need to change the arrangement of your previous water supply pipes.
Your tools and material checklist should comprise the following:
New Bathtub
Hammer
Pipe Wrenches
Prybar
Safety Glasses
Level
Pliers
Adjustable Wrench
Putty Knife
Screwdriver
Cold Chisel
Tape Measure
Pipe Caps
Preparing for the Installation
Firstly, the supporting frame supplied with the bath should be fitted (if required) according to the manufacturer�s instructions.
Next, fit the taps or mixer to the bathtub. When fitting the tap block, it is important to make sure that if the tap comes with a plastic washer, it is fitted between the bath and the taps. On a plastic bath, it is also sensible to fit a supporting plate under the taps unit to prevent strain on the bathtub.
Fit the flexible tap connectors to the bottom of the two taps using 2 nuts and olives (sometimes supplied with the tub).
Fit the plug-hole outlet by smearing mastic filler round the sink outlet hole, and then pass the outlet through the hole in the bath. Use the nut supplied by the manufacturer to fit the plug-hole. Examine the plug-hole outlet for an inlet on the side for the overflow pipe.
Next, fit the end of the flexible overflow pipe to the overflow outlet. After that, screw the pipe to the overflow face which should be fitted inside the bath. Make sure you use all of the supplied washers.
Connect the trap to the bottom of the waste outlet on the bathtub by winding the thread of the waste outlet with silicone mastic or PTFE tape, and screw on the trap to the outlet. Connect the bottom of the overflow tube in a similar manner.
The bath should now be ready to be fitted in its final position.
Removing Old Taps
If you need to replace old taps with new ones as a part of your installation, then the first thing you should do is disconnect the water supply. After doing so, turn on the taps to drain any water remaining in the system. The process of removing the existing taps can be quite problematic due to the restricted access that is often the case.
Use a basin wrench (crowsfoot spanner) or a tap tool to undo the nut that connects the supply pipes to the taps. Have a cloth ready for the remaining water that will come from the pipes. Once the supply pipes have been removed, use the same tool to loosen the nut that holds the taps onto the bath/basin. You will need to stop the single taps from turning during this process. Once the taps have been removed, the holes in the bath/basin will have to be cleaned of any old sealing compound.
Before moving on to fit the new taps, compare the pipe connections on the old taps to the new taps. If the old taps are longer than the new taps, then a shank adapter is required for the new taps to fit.
Installing the Bathtub
Using the two wooden boards under its feet, place the bathtub in the required position. The wooden boards are helpful in evenly spreading the weight of the bathtub over the area of the boards instead of focusing all the weight onto four small points.
The next goal is to ensure that the bathtub is leveled all round. This can be achieved by checking the spirit level and adjusting the feet on the bathtub until the spirit level reads level.
To install taps, fit the bottom of the furthest flexible tap connector to the appropriate supply pipe by making a compression join; then do the same for the other tap.
Switch on the water supply and check all joints and new pipework for leaks and tighten them if necessary. Fill the bathtub and also check the overflow outlet and the normal outlet for leaks.
Finally, fix the bath paneling as described in the manufacturer�s instruction manual.
Tiling and sealing around the bathtub should wait until the bathtub has been used at least once as this will settle it into its final position.
Fitting New Taps
If the tails of the new taps are plastic, then you will need a plastic connector to prevent damage to the thread. One end of the connector fits on the plastic tail of the tap and the other end provides a connection to the existent supply pipes.
If you need to fit a monobloc, then you will require reducing couplers, which connects the 10mm pipe of the monobloc to the standard 15mm supply pipe.
Next, position the tap in the mounting hole in the bath/basin ensuring that the washers are in place between the tap and the sink. Secure the tap in place with the manufacturer provided backnut. Once the tap is securely in place, the supply pipes can be connected to the tails of the taps. The taps can either be connected by using corrugated copper piping or with normal tap connectors. The former type should be connected to the tap ends first, tightening only by hand. The supply pipes can later be connected to the other end. Tighten both ends with a spanner after both ends have been connected.
Tiling Around the Bathtub
In the area where the bath meets the tile, it is necessary to seal the joins with a silicone rubber caulking. This is important as the fitting can move enough to crack a rigid seal, causing the water to penetrate the wall between the bath and the tiling, leading to complications with dampness and possible leaks to the ceiling below.
You can choose from a variety of coloured sealants to blend in your fixtures and fittings. They are sold in tubes and cartridges, and are capable of sealing gaps up to a width of 3mm (1/8 inch). If you have a larger gap to fill, you can fill it with twists of soaked newspaper or soft rope. Remember to always fill the bathtub with water before sealing, to allow for the movement experienced when the tub is in use. The sealant can crack fairly early if you do not take into account this movement before sealing.
Alternatively, ceramic coving or quadrant tiles can be used to edge the bath or shower tray. Plastic strips of coving, which are easy to use and cut to size, are also easily available on the market. It is advisable to fit the tiles using water-resistant or waterproof adhesive and grout.
Ray Dobson is the managing Director of WD Bathrooms based in Sheffield. For a wide range of bathroom supplies visit http://www.wdbathrooms.co.uk/acatalog/Bathroom_Suites.html or alternatively for our full range of products and more useful articles visit http://www.wdbathrooms.co.uk
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Not Everything Can go Down the Drain
By Jack Blacksmith
Many of us are programmed in such a way that if we see something disappear, we believe it is gone for good. This type of thinking is especially harmful when it comes to our plumbing. Not everything is designed to go down the drain; pouring the wrong materials into kitchen sinks and other sinks in your house will eventualy mean that you have big problems with your pipes that will cost a lot of money and time in order to fix. There are a lot of materials that if poured down the drain will accumulate, clogging the pipes, and some that will even corrode the joints and cause leaks and severe damage. Here is a list of the most common things that people dump into their sinks that can cause a lot of damage.
The most common item in this case is grease. Grease is liquid and it seems like it is natural for it to go down the drain, but remember it is only liquid because it is hot. As soon as grease cools down, it will begin to form into a solid, and eventually will become very solid. It will sit in your pipe and catch other matter, and eventually it will plug up the system. In the meantime, it might also start to smell really bad. Running hot water as you pour the grease down the drain will not help. The best way to get rid of grease is to put it into a container to harden and then throw it into the trash.
Bits of food are another item that make their way into the plumbing. Food should not be put down the drain unless you have a proper garbage disposal. Invest in some food catchers to put in the drain in order to catch the bits of pasta and vegetable that slip through the colander.
Hair always seems to make its way past the plug, in kitchen sinks and in bathtubs. Hair is very difficult to get out of piping once it gets in, and even worse it will catch other items and form one big mess. Keep hair from going into the pipes by buying hair catchers for all of your bathtub and shower drains. These need to be cleaned frequently, but it is better than paying the price for new piping.
Many people pour used materials such as motor oil, pesticides, and leftover moisturizers down their sinks. All of these are highly corrosive and will cause long term damage to pipes. Dispose of them in the manner recommended on the packaging, as to ignore this advice will not only cause significant damage to your house but to the environment as well.
A stitch in time saves nine, and the simple fact is that by being aware and taking care of materials properly, you will save yourself a lot of money in terms of plumbing later on. Don't be fooled by the disappearnce of items down the drain; it never just goes away!
The magazine writer Jack Blacksmith is especially passionate about themes dealing with cooking. You can come across his articles on plumbing and kitchen sinks at www.kitchen-cabinets-tips.com .
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